Puebla ... mole poblano, Volkswagen factory, telavera (ceramics) and the Popo Vulcano towering nearby. My 2nd Mexican outing led to this charming, cramped city, 2 hours drive from Mexico City. It took my neighbourly friend Alexandra and myself a good 20 minutes to find the turn-off to the fancy design hotel La Purificadora (spacy, alla fresca, glass staircases, great breakfast, location somewhat odd next to a shopping centre-cinema complex with a lovely garden).
We tried out a restaurant recommended to me (La Conjura, not exciting), came upon a lovely museum, which luckily was still open due to the ¨noche de los museos¨ and joined the crowds on the zocalo (main square). We had a very decent dinner with the obligatory mole poblano in an inner courtyard restaurant, whose walls were covered in naive paintings.
It was Buen Fin weekend (which has become a shopping weekend due to nation-wide discounts), so the next day´s pleasure of finding the Uriarte Ceramics Store was much enhanced. It´s quite a hike, though still in what is called the centro historic. You are well rewarded after spotting the fabulous tiled facade and entering into an interior courtyard with tile-covered walls and a display of their wonderful pottery (I was in heaven).
Because the Museo Bello y Gonzalez was closed - and because Puebla is charming - I shall go there again!
Select topics from the world of culture and politics, for a non-select audience, compiled and written by Victor Kommerell
Saturday, November 24, 2012
Saturday, November 10, 2012
Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead - not the movie)
We did not stay until the evening to watch a see of lit candles, but returned to the big city instead, to have a proper meal.
Addis to Kolumsa
One of the Conference days was reserved for a field trip to Kolumsa, the national agricultural research station for wheat. Getting out of Addis takes a while - very spread out - we passed a brand new light industrial zone built by the Chinese and then you enter an almost European countryside. Wide vistas of mellow, green plains surrounded by hills. The teff (local grain) fields are turned into handsome waves by the wind. We stopped by a farmer, with his two hectares of wheat, to learn how he was doing, wheat-wise. He held his own, surrounded by two busloads of agricultural researchers. At Kolumsa, we were given a good show, which included the presentation of a small mechanisation project funded by the German Government. Apparently, once you get to 2 hectares, oxen & plough won't do anymore and a small tractor would come in handy, to save time, labour and livestock maintenance costs. The drive back provided a good dose of Addis traffic jams. All in all, a lovely trip!
Saturday, August 18, 2012
Saturday, July 28, 2012
Chapingo: A Local Outing
This week, a CIMMYT outing took us to Chapingo, the campus of Mexico's major agricultural university, 20 minutes from the CIMMYT campus. It is housed in a lovely hacienda, complete with grand inner courtyard. Not only can you visit the Diego Rivera-decorated ex-chapel - surely the only chapel worldwide to feature communist symbols - but also the newly renovated Agricultural Museum, which combines exhibits of ancient farmers' implements with contemporary artists' interpretations of pottery/ceramic arts, which depict rural scenes.
There is something intriguingly naive about Mexican Art. The colors, the shapes, the subjects ... there is much humour, a comics dimension, often a political or social meaning - you know, art with a message, with a socialist state flavor sometimes. The Rivera (ex)chapel amazes with its references to the Sixtine Chapel and Renaissancy symbolism of fertility, translated into easily readable, beautiful coloured wall sections. Very nice buttocks, too, as the male among females on the outer wall attests to.
As a digestif, do enjoy the Mexican take on recycling.
Saturday, July 14, 2012
Mixed Mexican Bag (Fin de semanas)
Sunday two weeks ago, I agonized, anticipated and then celebrated the Spanish EUFA win in a restaurant, majority-occcupied by Spanish supporters, on Plaza de Madrid, in Mexico City (naturally, I was on the Italian side; they did a shitty job!). It wasn't a huge crowd, given how many Spaniards live in this city, though a joyous one!
That same weekend, my German neighbour Alexandra brought me to the Mercado San Juan, close to the Centro Historico. After enjoying an excellent cappuccino, we strolled the stalls, whose owners are highly adept at the traditional "try this, so fabulous; try that" routine, slicing and cutting up fruit etc. etc., so that, fool that I am, I bought! You can also enjoy a freshly made baguette sandwich with a plastic cup of wine there (we did, of course).
Last weekend, I finally made it to the Franz Mayer. The Franz Mayer? you'd ask. It is the museal legacy of a German immigrant from Mannheim, who settled in Mexico City in the mid-19th century, obviously had a fable for the arts decoratifs, made quite some money (finance) and spent it on building a collection, to be revered to this day. The museum space is lovely, a bit of a mixed bag collection, though with extraordinary exhibits, which you can then digest, sitting in a gorgeous courtyard, with your cup of tea of coffee. The current special exhibit focuses on the depiction of theVirtues and Vices/Sins, in the New World. Somehow so topical .... . Contemporary ceramics were exhibited on the first floor of the inner courtyard, which some striking pieces to enjoy! (The ceramic TV sets did it for me!).Thanks to some friends from work I also enjoyed the first pop (as opposed to classical) concert in D.F.! The women (mostly) singing along with Carla Morrison, the folksy tunes so well arranged, t'was most touching to see. She's a passionate and a little chubby young woman, who moves and dances in a most wonderfully natural and engaging manner on the stage. No chi chi, no bla bla, just lot's of 'the man I love', 'the pain of having boyfriends'-type songs (or so I thought, my Spanish being what it is - I missed a lot - she's also passionate about changing her country!).
You may note I write ofweekends. As I have joined the 9-5 crowd, add an hour or two and having become a commuter, during the week there's nothing I'd rather do than 'chill'; Jan will appreciate that, being in the same boat in Hamburg, when I wasn't ... . Last but certainly (1) not least, I came across a facade - a completely grotesque facade - full of grotesques! The Auricular kind (shell- or metallic-type forms), which was surely passed on from Holland, then Habsburg-Spanish, to the Spanish New World! What a feast this facade is, over-saturated with arty fats. Let's see what the next weekends will have in store?
Sunday, July 1, 2012
Mexico City's (Hidden) Treasures
Next door is the Mixcoac quarter, which features a handsome church, which I failed to find. To compensate, I came across one of the many verdant courtyards behind high walls, in which some D.F. people are privileged to live. Wouldn't I like to have that key ...
A recurring pleasure in this city is to discover architectural details - of just about any period in the 19th and 20th century -which make you marvel, or smile. How about this 70's (?) letter box-cum-apartment bell/intercom system? So often, my eyes catch some such little treasure, but I don't capture it on camera.
Saturday, June 30, 2012
Summer rain in Mexico
The most exciting thing on my routine commuter trip to Texcoco / CIMMYT - apart from being able to see Popo, the volcano, fuming - is the railroad crossing near the airport. Once in a while, a very, very long cargo train moves slowly across the completely unprotected crossing, whilst the cars left, right, and center get ready to storm across first once the last cargo wagon has passed.
As I write, a thunderstorm leaves its mark on Mexico City. T'is the rainy saison in Mexico, so a trip to Guarnevaca, the city of eternal spring, was a wet one. A friend of mine and I dropped into the local hacienda restaurant, enjoyed a Sunday pre-lunch drink whilst sitting under an awning, watching the rain wet the garden (and the peacocks). After a good half hour, we were taken to our table across the garden (under those parasols over there) and digested a very good lunch. Guernavaca is nothing to write home about, it's a pretty ugly city, nonetheless surrounded by beautiful hilly countryside, lying in an expansive valley, which you drive down from in serpentine fashion, coming from Mexico City. The pass between the two cities lies 3100 meters high.
Traffic, traffic, traffic, that's Mexico City, if you want to get around. If you stay in Condesa (where I live), no traffic to speak of (but the Thu-Fri-Sat bridge and tunnel crowd driving in to have some fun, blocking the avenues, as they have their cars valet-parked; I've yet to understand where all those cars are placed; somehow, the valets manage. Virtually every bar (!) has valet-parking). But if you want to go some other part of the city - generally there's a bit or a lot of traffic any day of the week. If 500,000 of the 25 million inhabitants want to move, I suppose that's enough to jam the roads a little. There you have it, endless clouds hovering over the endless city. Life goes on. The street sellers sell, the commuters hop into small buses at every corner, the metro runs (I've never yet hopped onto it) and the cars jamboree.
Sunday, June 10, 2012
(First) Voyage to India
Labels:
agriculture,
India,
movie freedom food love,
travelogue
Saturday, May 26, 2012
El Cairo
Cairo .... ; until May 2012, the closest I had gotten to this magical city was a Paul Temple adventure: The Sullivan Case, during which the Temples flew (!) to Cairo with a seaplane via Italy. I arrived with Lufthansa at 3 am in the morning. A huge airport, huge roads leading to it and a huge highway, which takes you into the centre. Two fishermen were working on the day's catch on the enormous bridge, which takes you across the Nile. When I arrived at the hotel, opposite the Goethe Institut, an all white villa in the middle of beige - that being Cairo's essential colour - a troupe of workers were polishing the lobby marble. No wonder, because this lobby was busy all day and evening, a place to meet and greet, an Arabian bazaar! Cairo's beige - dirty, bright, faded, gone - distinguishes it from Mexico City's more colorful hues, but otherwise it's just a big, with as much traffic and street life - and a dry climate.
After the first day of work and a good night's sleep, I woke up at 6, so I thought (it was 5 am), got dressed and walked through the lovely quarter, full of fascinating architecture, sleepy kiosk owners, straying cats and road sweepers, to the Nile, which was just waking up, all hazy. I didn't see much more of the city, but the movie attests to a road trip 2 hrs south to an agricultural research station, which we undertook on my third day there.
We rode on the eastern, deserty side of the Nile, as that was the faster route. Cairo did not want to end, but at some point, after passing the prison, where apparently Mubarak was held for a while, we did hit the desert - which contained brick factories with their high smokestacks. The desert looks just like the one around Abu Dhabi. Finally we came to the Nile again and crossed it, to enter its fertile surroundings. I hope to be there again!
After the first day of work and a good night's sleep, I woke up at 6, so I thought (it was 5 am), got dressed and walked through the lovely quarter, full of fascinating architecture, sleepy kiosk owners, straying cats and road sweepers, to the Nile, which was just waking up, all hazy. I didn't see much more of the city, but the movie attests to a road trip 2 hrs south to an agricultural research station, which we undertook on my third day there.
We rode on the eastern, deserty side of the Nile, as that was the faster route. Cairo did not want to end, but at some point, after passing the prison, where apparently Mubarak was held for a while, we did hit the desert - which contained brick factories with their high smokestacks. The desert looks just like the one around Abu Dhabi. Finally we came to the Nile again and crossed it, to enter its fertile surroundings. I hope to be there again!
Monday, April 23, 2012
Tiempo volcano
An odd feeling, driving along a toll road to work and watching an active volcano, which is spewing ash to the other side. 2400 m high Mexico City is surrounded by a more or less rectangular mountain range, which includes the Popo(catepetl).
Popo means 'the behind' in German. Popocatepl Square is one of my favorite places in Condesa, wish I could live there! But that is beside the point, when you drive along, watching white smoke rise from this 5000+ m high volcano; which makes you think of the unfathomable forces of nature, so much more powerful than we can imagine, despite our centuries of tampering with her (or it).Live web cam from the volcano
Popo means 'the behind' in German. Popocatepl Square is one of my favorite places in Condesa, wish I could live there! But that is beside the point, when you drive along, watching white smoke rise from this 5000+ m high volcano; which makes you think of the unfathomable forces of nature, so much more powerful than we can imagine, despite our centuries of tampering with her (or it).Live web cam from the volcano
Sunday, April 15, 2012
Get to know the neighborhood (Mexico City)
A gleaming Sunday invited for an exploratory stroll. Leaving Condesa, I crossed a bridge and took fright! A hole in the concrete stopped me in my tracks. Having photographed it, I felt more secure. Once at the other end, the steps led to a garden with a row of busts of Mexican musical heroines and heroes. The garden is surrounded by many-lane roads, including the six lane highway you have to cross to get to St. Miguel de Chapultepec.
Miguel is less done up than its fancier neighbor Condesa, but offers the same bewildering array of architectural styles: Art Deco, Belle Epoque, Hazienda style, the 40's, 50's and some very impressive contemporary buildings. It is a quieter colonia too, though just as green, thanks to the trees lining the streets. A magnificent palm trees was among them. I heard a trumpet being played and soon discovered that an old gentleman was playing here, the moving on, there, for his personal pleasure and to earn a few coins of recognition, I suppose. His music enchanted the neighbourhood.
A hole in the wall restaurant, opened two months ago, caught my eye and I returned to it, after having toured some more blocks. One rather long, rectangle of a room, with a long, uninterrupted table invited passersby to eat at 'Comedor'. I only had a cappuccino, but shall be back for more. Aiming to cross the wide highway at another point, I noticed a ream of flags cutting across the highway. Who had put them up, connecting the high-rise apartment block with a lamp post?
Returned to Condesa, I stumbled on a teeny-weeny patisserie instead, where I bought a baguette and two tartelettes. On that street corner, a makeshift taco stand served the neighbors, who sat down on plastic chairs and tables under an awning, to enjoy their snack. On the opposite corner, a pick-up truck-cum-food vendor offered Oaxacan delicacies. Not a block in Mexico City without some culinary offering!
Monday, August 15, 2011
Konservativer Rundumschlag gibt zu denken (Ich beginne zu glauben, dass die Linke recht hat)
Schirrmacher beschreibt eine entmoralisierte CDU, die nur noch einen konservativen Schleier für die wirtschaftlichen und Machtinteressen Weniger darstellt; die nichts "Moralisches" zur Zukunft Europas, oder zu 'Gesundheit in einer alternden Gesellschaft', zu sagen hat.
Schirrmacher ist auf der Suche nach "bürgerlicher Gesellschaftskritik" und klingt dabei wie Harald Schumann vom Tagesspiegel. Dass die CDU nicht mehr DIE 'bürgerliche', auch keine Volkspartei mehr ist; dass ist keine Neuigkeit. Die Grünen sind heutzutage am bürgerlichsten: Damalige Studenten und heutige Besserverdienende, die sich über Nachhaltigkeit in Sachen Umwelt, aber auch Gesellschaft und Staat, sorgen - und Bürger, die 'auf die Strasse gehen' (z.B. Stuttgart 21). Bei schlechter gestellten Gruppen in unserer Gesellschaft haben die Grünen kaum Rückhalt; auch so etwas 'Bürgerliches' ...
Doch: Wer sind die "Wenigen"? Konzernbosse? Die 1% der Deutschen, die unsäglich reich sind? Die abgehobene politische Klasse? Vielleicht die Menschen, die meinen, große Geschicke lenken zu können, die über den Dingen stehen - und daher auch außerhalb unserer Regeln? Und: Was ist "bürgerlich"? Haben wir BürgerInnen wirklich gar nichts mit den 'Wenigen' gemein?
Wenn etwas an unserem Bürgertum nicht mehr funktioniert, dann ist es das Teilen. Wir wollen alle mehr für den Einzelnen: Kitaplätze und maßgeschneiderte Bildung für unsere Kinder z.B., Wohnraum, Parkplätze für immer leistungsstärkere Autos. So etwas wie 'Heiraten und eine Familie gründen' hat abgenommen, unabhängig davon, dass sich Ehelichen und die Familie verändert haben. Wir müssen aber mehr teilen, weil wir über unsere Verhältnisse leben, weil Raum und Umwelt nicht unendlich sind und - zutiefst bürgerlich - weil wir geordnete und sozial verträgliche, also friedliche Verhältnisse haben wollen - keine Londoner riots oder Krawalle in den Pariser banlieues und auch keine seit Jahrzehnten anwachsende Nichtwählerschaft.
Wo ist die politische Gruppierung mit Durchsetzungskraft, die sagt: Wir sind alle Bürger mit Rechten und Pflichten, die nehmen und geben müssen; Europa ist uns sehr viel wert und muß uns daher etwas kosten? Deutschland ist ein Einwandererland und das ist gut so; Wir investieren mehr in die Zukunft unserer (wenigen) Kinder, als in die Absicherung von Konsum und Privilegien (sprich Subventionen)? Autos und Laster sind von gestern, ÖPNV und Bahn sind die Zukunft? Wir wollen keine Neuverschuldung und wir wollen Schulden tilgen?
Monday, August 1, 2011
ViVi ArtProjects Finissage July 2011
After four weeks of hanging in - well, on there, Vivian and I finissaged with a number of guests. T'was time to pack up our collages and paintings and hand the walls back to the Nova Vita Care Residence in Berlin (Thank You!). Both of us look forward to the next exhibition event. Where will it take us? As far as New York maybe? - PS: Please note: link to a musically divergent YouTube vid version is not available in Germany.
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Why do I collage?
Because our world is made up of unimaginably many bits and pieces, which often don't match, causing friction;
because our world is so complex, with many causes intertwining, many drivers pushing and pulling;
because one should always look (at least) twice, behind - or below the surface;
because there is so much creativity bustling on our planet; much visual, aural and other-sensical stimulation, which can be combined!
Collaging is combining, hiding, creating new out of existing, showing stories, all in one.
Monday, June 6, 2011
ViVi Video
It's all in the bag - or in Berlin. For our ViVi ArtProjects exhibition (starting 18th June), we've made a video wandering through Berlin, featuring a red bag. Watch our dada video and let me know what you think!
Monday, May 23, 2011
Joint exhibition in Berlin: Vernissage 18th June 17:00
Want to check out some paintings (Vivian) and collages (Victor)? Join us at the Nova Vita senior citizen residence in Berlin's West End. The link provides you with directions to get there. ViVi's works will be exhibited until 17th July. The vernissage will take place on Saturday, 18th June 2011, starting 17:00. You're most welcome!!
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
Abu Dhabi Take Three
My third trip to Abu Dhabi took me across the stirrings in Bahrain to an island of apparent social and economic stability - a movie set, it seemed to me. The future cultural island next to the city centre, which will host Guggenheim and Louvre outposts and a Zaha Hadid concert hall amongst others, is the topic of a fancy permanent exhibition in a new museum venue on an otherwise still deserted island. On Yas Island, a yacht harbour anchors next to a Formula 1 race track, which the guests of a brand new hotel, covered in a blanket of changing lights, can overlook - and overhear. The dinner guests at the brand new Cipriani's terrace can do the same. The Masdar ecocity (home to the only organic store in town - most produce is flown in ....) rises amidst a desert sea of construction; a luxurious resort hotel, amid the Liwan desert dunes. Fabulous facades! Modern opulence? Enjoy the movie.
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
Person to Picture-honest
Huge tableaux of manipulated photos envelop the visitor of the current Gilbert and George exhibition in Hamburg: Jack Freak Pictures, which were created in 2008, on the basis of literally tens of thousand photos. Some work titles titilate with puns: 'Metal Jack' for example - Full Metal Jacket, what remains of the Empire and Military in today's Britain, the British Jack on a biscuit tin ..., some titles make you wonder: Frigidarium, the frigid in the English temperament? Gilbert (the French one of the artist pair) and George are present in each one of their works. They are keen for their viewers to make up their own minds, to have direct relations with their works - and them? - so to speak. That is why they enjoyed seeing Bejing visitors (of another of their exhibitions) touch their pictures and eagerly discuss in front of them: "Picture-to-person honest", as opposed to the highly developed Western industry of art interpretation, appreciation, collection and of course, sales. I rather enjoyed that phrase and wanted to share it with you!
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Politischer Einstieg in Grün
Seit Dezember 2010 bin ich Mitglied der Grünen (GAL Hamburg, Bezirk Eimsbüttel, Wahlkreis 5). Grüner Wähler bin ich seit Mitte der 90er Jahre (1982 hätte ich das erste Mal wählen können, befand ich mich allerdings in London, um Internationales Abitur zu machen; danach studierte ich in den U.S.A.).Seit vielen Jahren mache ich mir Sorgen über wachsende Politikverdrossenheit, Nichtwählerwachstum und die m.E. immer breitere Schere zwischen professionellem Politikbetrieb und den 'BürgerwählerInnen'; keine guten Anzeichen für unsere Demokratie. Auch glaube ich, dass wir in Deutschland und Hamburg (wieder) lernen müssen, zu teilen - nicht auszu- oder verteilen, sondern zu teilen; vom 'carsharing', über den gemeinsamen öffentlichen Raum (z.B. Gemeinschaftsstrasse) zum Elbraum, bei dem es nicht nur um die Zukunft des Hafens gehen kann. Nicht, dass ich besonders vorbildlich wäre im 'teilen'; ich könnte mehr und besser teilen (u.a. in Sachen Helene Lange Gymnasium & Internationales Baccalaureat und Obdachlosigkeit in Hamburg habe ich mich engagiert und mache weiter so; man sollte bei sich anfangen). Gleichzeitig finde ich es wichtig, mit Anderen darüber ins Gespräch zu kommen. Deswegen habe ich mich entschlossen, politisch aktiv zu werden, über das Wählen hinaus.
Die Grünen machen die vernünftigsten politischen Vorschläge, davon bin ich seit Jahren überzeugt; siehe z.B. in Sachen Gesundheitspolitik. Wenn es einer mit dem viel zu abgenutzten Begriff Nachhaltigkeit ernst meint, dann sind es wir Grünen, die sich auch 'Vielfalt' auf die Fahnen geschrieben haben. Jedes Grünen-Treffen, dass ich bisher miterlebt habe, zeugt davon. Hamburg profitiert seit Jahrhunderten von der Vielfalt - kulturell und wirtschaftlich. In unserer Stadt sind Menschen zuhause, die 179 verschiedene Sprachen sprechen. Im Großen und Ganzen scheinen Hamburger also gut mit dem 'Fremden', oder 'Anderen' umzugehen. Das ist eine Stärke, die wir ausbauen sollten.
Hamburg ist ein Stadtstaat, dem in vieler Hinsicht enge Grenzen gesetzt sind. Ob Hafenentwicklung, Klimawandel, HSH Nordbank, die Schulden des öffentlichen Haushaltes oder sogar Schulpolitik, wir Hamburger sind abhängig vom Bund und/oder anderen Bundesländern, usw. Wir brauchen viele verschiedene Partner, um bestimmte Ziele zu erreichen. Im Vordergrund stehen also Vernetzung und Zusammenarbeit, wie es uns Grünen auch in Bezug auf Bürgerbeteiligung wichtig ist. Nebst solchem 'networking' geht es mir auch darum, um die Ecke zu denken und nicht offensichtliche Verbindungen herzustellen. Dazu möchte ich mich einbringen!
Hamburg ist gleichzeitig (privat) ungewöhnlich reich - natürlich ungleich verteilt - und (öffentlich) eher arm (ca. €25Mrd Gesamtschulden, mit öffentlichen Unternehmen der Stadt ca. €41Mrd). Gemeinsam haben wir Bürger, mithilfe der von uns gewählten Politiker über unsere Verhältnisse gelebt, was sich an dem jahrzehntelangen Schuldenaufbau ablesen lassen kann. Die globale Finanz- und Wirtschaftkrise hat unser Stadtschuldenfass zum Überlaufen gebracht. Wie drehen wir diesen Trend um? Wie können wir unsere Schulden - es sind unsere, der Staat sind wir - auf ein erträgliches Niveau abbauen? Viele Leute müssen an einer komplexen Lösung arbeiten. Ich glaube, eine Bürgeranleihe wäre Teil dieser Lösung. Wir Bürger, insbesondere die Wohlhabenden unter uns, leihen unserer Stadt freiwillig Geld und bekommen Zinsen dafür. Möglichst niemand sonst sollte daran verdienen (d.h. die Banken). Dann kann unsere Stadt Schulden mit Bürgerschulden ablösen; ein erster Schritt, bei dem die Zinsen in der Stadt blieben. Und weil viele Bürger an den Staatsschulden direkt 'beteiligt' wären, würden sie vermehrt darauf achten, dass der Hamburger Haushalt tatsächlich ein 'Runterfahren' der Schulden, nicht nur der Neuverschuldung, vorsieht. Nur so wird unsere Stadt wieder handlungsfähig, anstatt jeden 7., 6. oder 5. Steuereuro für Zinszahlungen zu zahlen. Diese Idee will ich voranbringen!
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